Any Port in a Storm

Monday May 11, 2026

Portstewart, North Ireland

Distance traveled: 321 km

Cumulative distance: 1716 km

Weather; 11 - 15 degrees with a few brief showers first thing in the morning then spectacualarly sunny for the rest of the day.

I was a little sad to be checking out of the Belleek Castle as it was fun to stay there but the reality is that it was a "novelty" stay. It had some challenges, easily overlooked for where we were but those shortcomings I think come with the territory of offering a place to stay that is hundreds of years old. It was a treat to stay in such a place.  

While it meant reversing course somewhat,  journey, we followed the coastline three quarters of an hour to Ceide Fields. There, beneath the wild boglands of north Mayo lies a system of fields, dwelling areas and megalithic tombs which together make up the most extensive Stone Age monument in the world.

Unliks ''modern" day stone walls (ie less than 1,000 years old) these walls don't appear to have been arranged in tidy rows with the rocks having been strewn loosely to create the paddocks. However, they may also have been a result of over 5,000 years of laying about.

Our guide told us they get 225 days of rain a year and that we were pretty lucky today. Not getting rain is one thing. Getting sunshine is a whole other ball of yarn.

The stone-walled fields, extending over hundreds of hectares, are the oldest known globally, dating back almost 6,000 years. They are covered by a natural blanket bog with its own unique vegetation and wildlife. we had a one hour tour from a guide and saw examples of stone-walled "paddocks" where Mesolithic people had kept farm animals like cattle and sheep. Eventually, conditions like cooling climate and/or disease or famine wiped out the people living there and the area eventually came to be covered in bog, which ended up preserving what lay beneath. Excavations have been going on for 90 years and will likely continue for many more. It appeared to me that there was a lot to be done as stone fencing had been identified by jabbing long metal pins into the ground to see if the hit rock or continued on a long journey to China.

Back on the "right track" and heading north again, we visited Carrowmore Megolithic "Cemetary" which seemed an odd name for it. It is not a cemetery as we would know one; it is a series of rock piles that were tombs for important people of the early Neolithic time (as much as 6,000 years ago).The cairns had been the final resting place for people of the period. One of the decendants, found in the main cairn, was revealed to have dependants scattered all around Ireland at other Neolithic sites, including the children of a brother- sister coupling or perhaps father-daughter, suggesting they were probably royalty of the time.

The original structure of the tomb was recreated by shoring up the rocks around the central piece. Many more such structures areound the area remain unexcavated in order to preserve the contents. However, they are being explore by less invasive methods, such as ground penetrating radar.

The original structure, restored.

Nan discovered a baby fox hiding in the grass.

We passed through Derry (Londonderry) later in the afternoon and we met up with my old high school buddy Pete and his brother John. Pete and i have been friends since 1973 so we have a relationship that spans five decades. He just happened to be in Ireland the same time as us son we made a point if getting together for dinner on the "crossover" day.

Pete, Nan, me and Pete's brother John.

We arrived at our destination of Portstewart (yes, it IS one word) about 8:00 pm, capping our longest day yet on this trip. Happy to be out of the "storm" of narrow roads, tight corners and traffic circles.

It just looks like a guy swimming in the ocean. But keep in mind it is May 11. That water temperature would be really cold. Anybody we have seen in the water to this point (including today) has been wearing a wet suit.

This has been one of my favourite scenes around Ireland: a farmer's field with elements of Old Ireland - buildings and fences two to five hundred years old, still in use.

No Dungeons at this Castle

Sunday May 10. Happy Mother to Cats Day

Belleek Castle, near Ballina.

Distance traveled: 262 km

Cumulative distance: 1,395 km

Temperature: 10-15. Brilliantly sunny in the morning, overcast and cloudy with occasional showers in the afternoon.

After an easy and restful day yesterday with no driving, today was almost as easy with driving but nothing in the way of stops on the route calling to us to pay attention. Which was awesome. We don't like to have too much on the agenda; sometimes it's nice just to see the countryside.

We had an early start (in relative terms) getting away by 9:30. I remember backpacking with friends of ours who would be up, packed and having eaten breakfast before we were out of bed. Of course, our dogs at the time were a big factor in that regard. But I think about how they were ready to go an hour before us. At least they were gracious enough to never complain. 

Well, so far Nan hasn't complained about being second out of bed. But we were away in good time, after spending 10 minutes to get out of the seven car parking lot. REALLY tight, with a lot of an inch forward, an inch back. Other than the scenic route, which took as four and a half hours vs the hour an a half direct route, we had an easy day of it. Roads were for the most part an inch or two wider than some we have been on recently so it was a low stress day. 

Our big treat was arriving at our destination: Belleek Castle. I have wanted to stay at a castle for years and this was my big moment... to surprise Nan and stay at a castle that dated from 1836. Big but not many rooms by most hotel standards - a dozen, I think - it is nicely appointed and has a fabulous chef in the dining room. We also signed up for the castle tour which started 2o minutes after we arrived. To our amazement, the tour lasted an hour and a half, which included a family history of the owners, a tour of the historical artifacts that the current owner had collected over the years and which ghost we may encounter if we are out of our rooms past midnight.  

Belleek Castle as we drove into the grounds from the gate.

Our room.

Ceiling is about 12 feet high.

The lobby. 

The dining room.

As much fun as it is to be staying in a castle, the biggest surpise has been the fabulous meal we enjoyed. The restaurand had a Michelin rating from 2018 and though I don't think the chef is the same, it was still an excellent dinner. Nan had scallops followed by slowoasted lamb shank whereas I had mascarpone and brie mouse, er, moose, whatever, followed by sirloin that was as tender as the finest tenderloin. And a green vegetable! The second time on this trip!  

A tribute to the family dogs of the owner.

A mauseleum with the original owner of the castle. Ostensibly he had wanted to be buried with his horse though it was not confirmed that that had actually happened.

The castle is adjacent to the River Moy, not too many km from the open ocean. In the past, the river was an important source of salmon for locals though large commercial operations don't seem to exist around here anymore. Still, there was lots of evidence from the glory days of a robust fishery.

An ice house from around 1800 for the fishery.

A concrete boat which had been dragged up the river.

Lots of small fishing boats and moorages for others.